SPHERE's Insider Guide to Paris 2024: Part Two

SPHERE's Insider Guide to Bars, Cafes and restaurants in Paris 2024

You’ll be spoiled for options for food and drink in Le Marais: For the coffee fanatics, Yellow Tucan (20 Rue des Tournelles, 75004) or Fringe (106 Rue de Turenne, 75003) are good choices. Le Pick Clops (16 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004) offers both a delicious lunch and the perfect spot for some people-watching, or head to L’As du Fallafel (34 Rue des Rosiers, 75004) for a quicker, takeaway option. Channel your inner intellectual whilst getting a glass of wine at La Belle Hortense (31 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003), a bar filled with books. And for something more formal, Les Philosophes (28 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004) is the go-to French bistro. 

Who can possibly visit Paris without scooping their spoon into a fluffy soufflé. At Le Récamier you can do one better, with possibly the very best soufflé in the world. Run by globally renowned chef, Gérard Idoux, tasked with continuing Madame Récamier’s legacy. You’ll be glad to know that there is not one, but two, soufflé menus. Depending on whether your cravings are swaying to the sweet or savoury side. From strawberry and rhubarb to thyme, goat’s cheese and black cherry - there’s a little pot of airy goodness for everyone to dig into.

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We’ve tackled soufflés, but what about croissants? Macarons? Crêpes? Paris has so many sweet treats to indulge in, but where can we get the very best? Beginning with macarons. Pierre Hermé is THE place for a classic macaron, but Ladurée is also a sure-fire option. Ble Sucre, a sweet little boulangerie down in Bastille, is the perfect nook to sit in for a flaky croissant.

As for crepes, head to Breizh Café. Rooted by the tastes and flavours of Brittany and fusing them with Japanese culture, this unique crêperie is unlike any other. However, if looking for a more traditional crêpe, head to Tram Café in the Latin Quarter. Sat inside La Dame Blanche record store and neighbouring a bookstore, grab yourself a crêpe or a croque before having a browse across shelves of fresh novels and rare vinyl. Just opposite is Saint-Etienne church, a lesser-known Parisian structure that is worth popping in for a look.

Being a city where so many writers, stars and singers have walked before us, Paris is filled with the hangout spots of familiar names. Stop by Café de Flore at 172 Boulevard Saint-Germain, a long running celebrity haunt and coffeehouse once frequented by the likes of De Beauvoir and Sartre. SPHERE Digital Editor, Lisa Barnard, comments that “it has to be done once!” Then head along to Montparnasse for some live piano and an oyster (or two) at La Closerie des Lilas. For those who keep their shelves lined with modern classics, the famed French brasserie was a favourite of both Ernest Hemingway and Scott Fitzgerald. A couple more traditional brasseries to have on your radar are Chez Georges (Rue du Mail, 75002) and Brasserie de Pres (6 Cr du Commerce Saint-André, 75006).

The perfect spot for brunch on an outdoor (smoke-free) terrace is Judy (18 Rue de Fleurus, 75006). The menu is completely gluten-free but is suitable for all palettes, or Popotes (6 Rue Treilhard, 75008), think big, colourful, instagram-influencer salad bowls. Move from Judy to the nearby English bookshop, The Red Wheelbarrow (11 Rue de Médecis, 75006), and grab a copy of Hemingway’s A Movable Feast, his memoir of Parisian life in the 1920s, in the very bookshop that he used to go to. Another spot for a hearty brunch is The Dancing Goat in Belleville (117 Av. Gambetta, 75020) serving brimming focaccia sandwiches, granola bowls and coffee. Alternatively, Café Marlette in the 9th Arrondissement is the place for eggs, whether you like them drenched in comté cheese or not. The choice is there…

If looking for a sit-down meal in the Latin Quarter, go to Place de la Contrescarpe, where you’ll find restaurants with large terraces, including the modern bistro, Gaston (3 Place de la Contrescarpe, 75005). A good lowkey bar is Le Melocoton Bar (10 Rue Descartes, 75005) which has a long list of cocktails and a happy hour that lasts till 10pm. The district is also home to the bookshop Shakespeare and Company (37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005), which although not exactly off the tourist track is fun to have a look in, particularly for the reading room upstairs.

For finding a high-quality verre de vin, head to either Juveniles or Willi’s Wine Bar. Set in close quarters to the Louvre on Rue de Richelieu, Juveniles Wine Bar provides a selection of wines from both near and far. From Beaujolais and Provence to Australia and South America. They were also amongst the first Parisians to bring a slcie of London into a Paris wine bar, in the form of Neal’s Yard cheese. A go-to accompaniment with a rich and syrupy sherry or port. Juveniles also serve a range of traditional French bistro dishes to pair perfectly with your bottle of choice.

Focusing on Rhône varieties is our other pick, Willi’s Wine Bar.  Opened on Rue des Petits Champs during the 1980s, this warm wine bar is named after Willi – a beloved dog who once wandered the streets of Paris. Of course, being named after a dog, Willi’s is dog friendly. Now, rather than Willi, you can see Jaja roaming the bar and surrounding areas. Or bring along your own fluffy companion if you have them with you!

On Rue du Sentier (75002) sits The Hoxton Hotel, tucked inside are multiple eateries and bars. All easy wins combining Parisian charm with contemporary flair. As you wander through the hotel’s stylishly restored 18th-century mansion, you'll discover Rivié - the all-day brasserie. Where guests can revel in delectable French classics with a modern twist, from buttery croissants in the morning to sumptuous steak frites as the evening sets in. For those seeking a dash of decadence, the intimate Jacques' Bar offers an exquisite array of cocktails. Another spot for a well-shaken martini or floral daiquiri is Bisou (15 Temple Blvd, 75003), set in the ambience of pink neon lights.

SPHERE's Insider Guide to Shopping in Paris 2024

Throw on your most fashionable and original attire and head to Le Marais for some shopping. Particurlarly good streets for shops are Rue de la Verrerie, Rue Vieille du Temple, Rue du Roi de Sicile, and Rue des Ecouffes. As for the shops themselves, Empreintes is a concept store to browse through contemporary French design and seek out a new individualistic and decorative object. Tea-drinkers will be spoilt for choice at Mariage Frères, and Merci is the spot for minimalists looking to add to their space (or wardrobe).

Whilst we are keeping the focus on the smaller and more eccentric shops in Paris, Samaritaine (9 R. de la Monnaie, 75001) has everything in one place for anyone looking to bring back a luxe item from the city. The department store, owned by LVMH, unsurprisingly houses all the key luxury designers. From Chanel to Dior and Louis Vuitton, window shop the seasonal collections or treat yourself to a piece.

Stepping into Galerie Vivienne (Rue des Petits Champs, 75002) is like wandering into a Parisian time capsule, transporting you back to the 19th century. This covered arcade, with its ornate mosaics, grand archways, and artfully adorned glass roof, is not just a shopper's paradise—it's a living museum of French chic. Boutiques brim with vintage treasures, from rare antiquarian books at the cozy Librairie Jousseaume to bespoke wine selections at Legrand Filles et Fils, where connoisseurs can savor exquisite French wines. Fashion lovers will find themselves entranced by the stylish creations at Nathalie Garçon's atelier, where haute couture meets quirky sophistication. And let's not forget the curiosities at Siècle, an antique store filled with an eclectic mix of collectibles and nick nacks. Whether you're hunting for a unique piece of jewelry, the perfect outfit, or simply soaking in the ambience of a truly Parisian shopping experience.

Boutique leather brand, Polène, has captured the hearts of fashionistas worldwide with its sculptural designs and buttery-soft leathers. Whether you're eyeing the iconic Numéro Un with its distinctive curves or the sleek Numéro Sept for a touch of sophistication, each piece is a work of art that elevates any outfit and their collections are worth having a browse if you’re after a new handbag staple. With a philosophy of "quiet luxury," Polène effortlessly blends Parisian flair with modern simplicity, making their bags not just accessories, but timeless companions.

Every Tuesday, Friday and Sunday Boulevard Raspail transforms into a bustling runway of colourful fruits, artisan cheeses, fragrant breads, and vibrant vegetables, all lovingly grown by local farmers. Meanwhile, the Marché d'Aligre offers a feast for the senses with its lively, eclectic vibe. The marché is a melting pot of flavours, from classic French charcuterie to North African delights. Whether you're hunting for gourmet treasures or simply soaking in the lively ambiance, both markets are quintessential Parisian experiences that leave you both well-fed and wonderfully entertained.