The New Watches of Wonder Part Two
Words by
Sphere Editors
23rd July 2024
Welcome back as we continue to explore our pick of innovative timepieces from the Watches & Wonders Salon Geneva. If you missed Part One of the report, give it a read here - otherwise let's get into the final luxury models from the outstanding selection. From pressure defiance to top-notch artisanal craftsmanship, these watches are pushing boundaries this 2024.
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down Manufacture Calibre
Beautifully assembled, the Datograph Up/Down from A. Lange & Söhne is a horological marvel. Powered by the manually wound calibre L951.6, comprising 451 meticulously assembled parts. Assembled twice and finished in the typical Lange fashion, it epitomises engineering and aesthetic excellence. The flyback mechanism allows two rapid consecutive time measurements with a single button push, reflecting early aviation's speed-switching function. Its precisely jumping minute counter moves to the next increment exactly when the chrono seconds hand hits the 60th second. Beating at 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour, the column-wheel chronograph with its oscillating balance spring ensures time measurements accurate to one-fifth of a second. The sapphire-crystal case back reveals the intricate workings of the minute counter mechanism and the column wheel. The technical sophistication of the movement is complemented by superb craftsmanship making this watch a dazzling blend of historical homage, technical brilliance, and artisanal perfection. Placing it in a league of its own.
Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina
Roger Dubuis Orbis in Machina Central Monotourbillon
Imagine a watch that boasts a split personality: a sleek, modern face with contemporary finishes on the front, harbouring a lavish, baroque back showcasing early Roger Dubuis designs. Rooted in true Geneva tradition, the Central Monotourbillon is a rare piece that only a handful of watchmakers have mastered. Crafted for discerning collectors, it blends impressive watchmaking with an aesthetic that’s both striking and suave. Distinct from the 42 mm Excalibur Monotourbillon, this 45 mm marvel flaunts symmetry, concentricity, and roundness, making it a true gem for those who appreciate distinguished details.
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver
Zenith Defy Extreme Diver Watch
Another deep water watch on the scene is Zenith’s DEFY Extreme Diver. Combining edgy design with powerful features. This watch is backed by the El Primero 3620-SC automatic high-frequency calibre, boasting a 60-hour power reserve. Built for professional divers, it can reach depths of up to 600 meters. It’s easy-grip, rotating blue ceramic bezel and X1-grade Super-LumiNova markers ensure visibility during the toughest expeditions. Encased in a 42.5mm angular titanium case, it includes a helium escape valve and offers water resistance up to 60 ATM. Onto the interchangeable straps: a titanium bracelet, rubber strap and eco-conscious fabric strap made from recycled fishing nets are available to swap and change as you wish. Dive deep and defy pressure with zenith-watches.com
Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde
Parmigiani Toric Petite Seconde in Grey Celadon dial (left) and Sand Gold dial (right)
Wrapping wrists in sleek pastel suede and a fresh contemporary face is Parmigiani, with their TORIC Petite Seconde. This redefined dress watch features a gold manual winding movement, encased in a choice of gold or platinum with a gold “chevé” dial, gold indexes and hands, and a gold crown. The large bridges are adorned with Côtes de Fleurier and a sandblasted plate as a nod to classic watchmaking while embracing a minimalist aesthetic. Set to launch in September 2024, this watch is a delicate and chic fusion of tradition and innovation. Perfect for those who admire fine craftsmanship.
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa
Panerai Submersible Luna Rossa
Introducing the Submersible QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa Ti-Ceramitech™ PAM01466. A watch that sails into new waters of style and innovation. This nautical-inspired addition from Panerai features a striking blue sun-brushed dial housed in a 44mm Ti-Ceramitech™ case, a revolutionary material born from seven years of R&D. This cutting-edge titanium ceramisation process, utilising Plasma Electrolytic Oxidation, marries the lightness of titanium with the durability of ceramic. All while achieving a mesmerising blue hue, reminiscent of the deep sea. It's a watchmaking breakthrough, with patent pending... For those who appreciate both high-performance functionality and distinctive aesthetics, the Ti-Ceramitech™ sets a new standard in timepiece innovation.
