Dazzling Cartier Exhibition at the V&A

This dazzling Cartier exhibition at the V&A is the story of the Maison, a story told through 350 glittering pieces from the archives of the iconic jeweller and watchmaker. From historic gemstones and heirloom watches to show-stopping necklaces that have graced the necks of royalty, the exhibition races Cartier’s evolution from its origin in 1847 to its current place in modern luxury.

The exhibition is beautifully curated and follows a logical storytelling sequence. It opens with the Manchester Tiara, made in Paris for The Dowager Duchess of Manchester. Its intricate heart motif signals that you too will fall in love with the Cartier story, if you are not already a convert.

The first main room is a showcase of Cartier’s flourishing trade around the world, from India to Persia, Japan to China, Egypt to Russia. It demonstrates the Cartier brothers’ canny approach, creating flattering pieces which reflected the tastes and cultures of their clients, while maintaining the Maison’s inimitable craft and ingenuity.

 As Helen Molesworth, curator together with Rachel Garrahan, commented: "This exhibition celebrates the creativity of Cartier and the emergence of its signature style, the technical ingenuity and craftsmanship of the Maison, together with its relevance of staying up to date, creating the new fashions and never falling behind. Cartier was behind the beginnings of so many wonderful steps in jewellery, for example pioneering the Garland style in the 20th century. Famous for the art deco designs that were inspired by Egypt, India, China, places all over the world, this very global vision and Cartier’s close association with key clients such as members of the Royal Family and the Maharajas, with whom Jacques Cartier became not just a business associate with, but great friends.”

With the first six weeks of the exhibition already sold out before the doors even opened, it’s clear that this is a highly anticipated display—marking the first major UK exhibition of the legendary jewellery Maison in nearly 30 years. The three grandsons of founder Louis-François Cartier set out to make the Cartier name synonymous with global luxury, and this exhibition tells the story through extraordinary pieces of how they achieved that. It highlights the Maison’s close relationship with the Royal family and other notable figures, charting its journey to becoming a household name that epitomises luxury craftsmanship at its finest.

The Story of La Panthère

We begin with the panther. A signature motif of Cartier since 1914, the majestic print of this big cat first appeared in the brand’s collection on a wristwatch, its spots created with onyx set against a backdrop of diamonds. From there, the panther made its way into Cartier’s designs, initially in figurative form on a cigarette case presented to Jeanne Toussaint, encrusted with diamonds, onyx, and platinum. In 1949, it came to life in 3D as a commissioned brooch for the Duchess of Windsor, gracefully perched on a sapphire cabochon. It wasn’t until 1983 that Cartier officially introduced the Panthère de Cartier watch collection, which has since been reimagined through the years. The inspiration behind the panther, however, can lead back to Jeanne Toussaint. After becoming Director of Cartier’s fine jewellery department in 1917, she brought with her a passion for the powerful feline. It is also said that Louis Cartier even nicknamed Toussaint La Panthère—a nod to her fierce spirit and her style, often seen draped in luxurious furs.

Now, La Panthère stands as an instantly recognisable symbol of Cartier, making a bold statement throughout the exhibition. The sleek feline lounges on branches in dazzling brooches and slinks into statement bangles, its emerald eyes gleaming with allure. Among the highlights is the 1949 sapphire clip brooch, commissioned by the Duke of Windsor for his wife, the original 1914 panther skin wristwatch and an iconic 1978 panther bracelet of pavé diamonds set with onyx. The exhibition also has live workshops that demonstrate a range of the Maison’s jewellery techniques to visitors, including how the panther is made today.

Fit for a Coronation

Encased in glass cylinders and cast with spotlights, tiaras take centre stage in the exhibition’s final crescendo—a room dedicated entirely to these regal headpieces. Spanning from the 1900s to the present day, the collection has been meticulously curated in collaboration with private collectors, international museums, and the Royal Collection, who have lent several significant pieces. Among the highlights is the Scroll Tiara, commissioned in 1902 for the Countess of Essex and worn at the coronation of Edward VII. It reappeared decades later at Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, this time worn by Clementine Churchill, wife of Winston Churchill. Also on display is the rose clip brooch worn by Princess Margaret during her sister’s coronation.

On the pop royalty front, die-hard Rihanna fans may recognise the Garland-style Scroll Tiara from her 2016 W Magazine cover, where it was brought out of the vaults and styled with a matching Cartier choker and earrings. Also featured in the exhibition is the 1903 Manchester Tiara from the V&A’s own collection, embodying Cartier’s early ambition as it set its sights on becoming a global name in luxury.

Frederick Mew’s Unseen Sketches

One of the exhibition’s most priceless pieces, on loan from the Royal Collection, is the Williamson Diamond Brooch. Designed by British artist Frederick Mew—whose floral motifs became a favourite among the Royal family—the brooch’s centrepiece is a 23.6 carat pink diamond that was presented to Queen Elizabeth II as a wedding gift by Dr. John Williamson, after whom the piece is named. It wasn’t until 1953 that the Queen had the diamond cut and set into its final form. According to the Royal Collection Trust, it remains “one of the finest pink diamonds ever discovered.” The brooch takes the form of a jonquil flower, with five petals and two leaves crafted from noisette-cut diamonds, and a stalk formed from baguette-cut stones, all delicately arranged around the vivid pink centre. Alongside the brooch, the exhibition also features a series of never-before-seen preliminary sketches by Mew, offering a rare glimpse into his creative process and the evolution of this extraordinary design.

The exhibition curators, Helen Molesworth and Rachel Garrahan, said that “the V&A is the perfect stage to celebrate the pioneering achievements of Cartier and its transformative ability to remain at the centre of culture and creativity for more than a century,” and that they are “excited to be able to share with visitors some of Cartier’s most famous creations as well as revealing previously unseen objects and archive material.”

Already booking up well in advance—and with pieces so intricate they warrant more than one visit—the exhibition is set to draw steady crowds throughout its seven-month run. The halls are unlikely to be quiet, and for good reason.

Book tickets for Cartier at the V&A here, starting at £27, or purchase a V&A membership here to attend at your leisure for free.